Lisbon sits on hills above the wide Tagus River. Don't rush it: climb to the viewpoints, listen to fado and try a pastel de nata in every pastelaria.
Old neighbourhoods
Alfama is a maze of streets below São Jorge Castle, with fado in the evenings. Baixa and Chiado are the centre, with squares and cafés. Bairro Alto has bars that spill onto the street at night. The famous tram 28 runs through several neighbourhoods at once.
Belém
The Jerónimos Monastery and the Belém Tower are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is also where the original pastéis de nata bakery is.
Modern Lisbon
LX Factory fills former factory buildings with a bookshop, restaurants and workshops. The riverside along the Tagus is for walks and sunsets.
Nearby
Sintra, with its palaces and gardens (also UNESCO), and the Cascais coast make a good day trip. Hills and cobblestones mean comfortable shoes are a must. Places and events are in Places and Events.